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Anonymous commented at 2011-05-01 01:50:47 » #715624
@Demetrious
A high grip is ideal, actually, because it gives the shooter more control by bringing the axis of the bore closer to that of the forearm and reducing muzzle flip. It's also important to avoid rotating the gun too far to the right if you're right-handed (or to the left if you're left-handed). Ideally, the shooter should have the pad of their trigger finger resting on the trigger, not the joint. They should also squeeze the trigger and not jerk their finger backwards or flinch in anticipation of recoil, as both reduce accuracy significantly.
I own a Kimber Custom II and a Colt M1991-A1 (not a typo, they actually produced an "M1991" model). The Kimber's got a ring hammer and the M1991 has a standard spur hammer. When you get a good grip on the gun with the spur hammer, you'll inevitably end up with a little red, rectangular mark where the hammer digs into your hand. In spite of this, I really, really like those no-frills 1911s like the Springfield Mil-Spec M1911A1. I don't own one yet, but they seem to shoot even better than my Kimber. That's kinda sad, considering that they're about $300 cheaper. Kimber's build quality on their sub-$1000 guns is kind of questionable, if you ask me.
1911s are fairly complex guns and have lots of little parts that could get lost during a takedown if your work space is not properly cleared beforehand, especially if you're taking apart the trigger and magazine release system. The 1911's trigger is essentially just a metal "shoe" connected to a bar that transfers the trigger pull straight back to the sear. It's this smooth, crisp single-action trigger that gives the 1911 its reputation for accuracy. However, for a 1911 to function reliably and accurately, all these parts need to be fit together just right.
Like the trigger shoe, for example. If it's undersized, it'll wobble around in the frame, like on my M1991A1 (which was a used handgun on which the previous owner had obviously done a botch job of a trigger replacement). If it does that, you'd need to either take it to a gunsmith or buy an oversized trigger and file or Dremel it down to size. It helps if you have a pair of dial calipers and a trigger pull gauge.
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@Demetrious
A high grip is ideal, actually, because it gives the shooter more control by bringing the axis of the bore closer to that of the forearm and reducing muzzle flip. It's also important to avoid rotating the gun too far to the right if you're right-handed (or to the left if you're left-handed). Ideally, the shooter should have the pad of their trigger finger resting on the trigger, not the joint. They should also squeeze the trigger and not jerk their finger backwards or flinch in anticipation of recoil, as both reduce accuracy significantly.
I own a Kimber Custom II and a Colt M1991-A1 (not a typo, they actually produced an "M1991" model). The Kimber's got a ring hammer and the M1991 has a standard spur hammer. When you get a good grip on the gun with the spur hammer, you'll inevitably end up with a little red, rectangular mark where the hammer digs into your hand. In spite of this, I really, really like those no-frills 1911s like the Springfield Mil-Spec M1911A1. I don't own one yet, but they seem to shoot even better than my Kimber. That's kinda sad, considering that they're about $300 cheaper. Kimber's build quality on their sub-$1000 guns is kind of questionable, if you ask me.
1911s are fairly complex guns and have lots of little parts that could get lost during a takedown if your work space is not properly cleared beforehand, especially if you're taking apart the trigger and magazine release system. The 1911's trigger is essentially just a metal "shoe" connected to a bar that transfers the trigger pull straight back to the sear. It's this smooth, crisp single-action trigger that gives the 1911 its reputation for accuracy. However, for a 1911 to function reliably and accurately, all these parts need to be fit together just right.
Like the trigger shoe, for example. If it's undersized, it'll wobble around in the frame, like on my M1991A1 (which was a used handgun on which the previous owner had obviously done a botch job of a trigger replacement). If it does that, you'd need to either take it to a gunsmith or buy an oversized trigger and file or Dremel it down to size. It helps if you have a pair of dial calipers and a trigger pull gauge.
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